Monthly Archives: July 2016

Portable Grill for Cycles Road Test

As announced recently on Instagram here is our product review of a portable grill for cycles.

We have all been there – enjoying the wilds by the campfire and wishing we had some way to grill our sports energy bars and boil some water for our herbal tea. Well, we here at CRC don’t accept advertising so we can call em like we see em, and have tested the latest product and here is our unchangeable and irrevocable pronouncement on this device.

cute grill attached to a pink 29er is the subject of this review

cute grill attached to a pink 29er is the subject of this review


There was no packaging available for review and comment, the grill came pre-installed on a tarted up pink 29er mountain bike.


The grill was not chromed. We only like chromed grills as powdercoating scuffs, smears, and peels when placed over a flame and makes our weenies smell and taste funny.


The grill seemed to fit nicely although it was not perfectly level.


No luggage was included with the grill, but it seems as though it might be suitable perch for a basket as well as a couple of bags; but we did not investigate this possibility.

Planing/tubing selection

The tubes were not thin wall. The grill did not plane. Roll down tests were inconclusive. Wind tunnel tests were not performed. It is important to note that there were no open brazing holes for gnomes to be inserted or to obtain oxygen and fresh air.


The grill did not appear to be low trail.


We did not notice fenders or lights on the grill.


The grill was difficult to remove by firelight for use on the fire, and several small pieces of hardware were lost in the darkness. The grill burned our fingers painfully after we tried to move it while in use. The space between the tubes was much too large and our items to be grilled continually fell into the ashes. As we continued to struggle with the grill, we were shocked by a high pitched screaming which we thought were gnomes inside the grill trying to escape.

The grill was quickly removed from the fire (hence the burned fingers) although we were unable to determine if any gnomes were damaged. Later, we realized the screaming sound was actually our spicy vegan sausages sizzling.

We recommend the application of stickers that read ‘caution, hot while in use’ on the grill.


We simply cannot recommend this portable grill for grilling. Use as a grill does not even seem to have  been considered at all in the design, which is completely baffling to the road tester. Perhaps if you need a rack for carrying things on your tarted up pink 29er mountain bike, this grill is probably just fine, but we did not investigate this feature and cannot in good conscience endorse the use of a grill as a rack.

Disclosure: CRC does not accept advertising nor does it manufacture product – we call em like we see em.


Gnome Care for the Beginner

We are continuing our popular series “How to not embarrass yourself when Randonneuring” with a short article on gnome care. This article discusses ways to look after your gnome and keep your bike planing like the dickens.


A healthy gnome is a joy to behold

A healthy gnome is a joy to behold

Perhaps you have just bought a gnome on the spur of the moment or drunkenly bid on one at a charity auction (and won!) and you have no idea on how to care for it. Maybe you think you know the basics but would like to learn more; like what to do with gnome droppings when cleaning the frame, or what food and plants you can give to your gnome.

If you have just returned home with your new gnome you are going to need to know how to correctly introduce your newly purchased friend in to his or her new home in your randonneuse. Like most people around bikes, your gnome can easily get burned out and sometimes even get sick of cycling. To minimize the chance of this happening, read on and keep those gnomes happy and oscillating!

If you read over all the articles we have on this site, by the time you have finished you could have earned an online certificate in gnome care if you were to have enrolled in our online course in gnome care so give enrolling a chance and then you could earn extra money in your spare time as a certified professional gnome care giver.

Regardless of your enrollment status, if you study all of our articles you can be confident that you know what you are talking about when it comes to gnomes, and that you are an expert who can help friends, family and passersby learn more about how to care for them.

A gnome is an easy creature to keep and care for. They take up relatively little room in your home. They don’t bark loudly or leave hairs on your sofa, they don’t whine to be let out for a randonnee, they usually remember to put the toilet seat down, and also they don’t require expensive treats.

All they need is a low trail cycle with standard size thin wall tubing, a little tonic in the frame to make it less harmful to them, and regular feeding every day, and that’s it. Do that and you won’t hear a peep out of them.

Introducing your gnome to your frame

This can be the most important step in gnome care. First we’ll tell you what not to do.

Jamming them down the seat tube

Yeah, we know, that is the biggest hole in your frame, but put the gnomes in your seat tube and they will get caught in your bottom bracket and you’ll get all kinds of creaking noises. Cheap carbon bikes with gnomes stuffed down the seat tube by non-union labor always creak. To insert your gnome properly you need to get a gnome hypodermic available from our online store and inject them into the brazing vent holes of your frame. Once the gnomes are inside they will expand and and start oscillate and will not fall out.

A frame with properly inserted gnomes makes a ‘ping’ sound when flicked with a finger, not a ‘thunk’.

Adding Too Many Gnomes at Once

What low trail randonneuse owner isn’t eager to fill the frame with gnomes? Unfortunately adding too many gnomes all at once is another common new gnome installer mistake. Until the beneficial bacterial colonies have fully established within the frame, the randonneuse cannot safely support a full load of gnomes. Only add a couple of small hardy gnomes initially. Wait a week or so until both the ammonia and nitrite levels have risen to optimal levels before adding more gnomes. You can buy testing equipment at our online store.


Even after getting through the initial startup, it’s very common for new owners to overstock the randonneuse. Although an experienced person may successfully keep a troupe of twenty gnomes in randonneuse, it would be disastrous for a beginner to attempt it.

Debate exists over the inch per cm of inserted seat post rule, but it provides a good basic yardstick from which to start. I recommend taking eighty percent of the net seat tube length after seat post insertion as the maximum number of gnomes to keep in the frame. The net seat tube length is the amount of seat post visible after the powdercoating and polishing.

For example, let’s say a randonneuse holds 16 cm of seat post after the frame saver and internal wiring have been added. Multiplying 16 times 80% yields a result of 12.8 – or about 13 gnomes as a maximum number for this frame. It is always wise to go under the maximum to rather than all over. Remember, crowded gnomes do not oscillate freely.

Keeping Incompatible Gnomes

New randonneuse owners often choose gnomes that look appealing to them, without knowing the environmental needs of the gnome. Some gnomes may fight with one another, or require widely different internal frame conditions. Either way, they should not be kept together. Always research each variety of gnome before choosing frame mates. Select peaceful gnomes that thrive in similar air conditions. Older gnomes up for adoption are available at our online store.


The number one mistake made by gnome owners other than overstocking is overfeeding their gnomes. Gnomes are opportunistic and will seek food at all times. Just because they appear hungry, doesn’t mean they need to be fed all the time, so don’t fall for those big sad puppy eyes when they are getting unruly.

Feed them no more food than is completely consumed in five minutes or things will get messy fast in your randonneuse.

During startup, feed gnomes no more than once per day, and during critical times when there is an approaching grand randonnee, withhold feeding for a day or two to reduce the wastes being produced within the randonneuse. Gnomes can easily go several days without food, and not suffer ill effects. This is important to know when shipping your bike to PBP.

Not Testing the Air

New owners aren’t magically given full knowledge of the oscillation cycle, and the need to monitor the air chemistry in their randonneuse. As a result they often are unaware of the need to test their air, and fail to take steps to deal with harmful toxins.

When the frame is first set up, it should not be ridden for a day or two. Before adding the gnome to the randonneuse, the pH, ammonia, and nitrite levels within the frame should be tested for a baseline record. During the startup cycle it is important to test the ammonia and nitrites often (see Nitrogen Cycles website for details). Once the randonneuse’s internal environment is well established, test the air monthly to be aware of unseen problems that may be brewing. If gnomes suddenly die, test the air to see if anything has changed. Testing equipment is available in our online store.

Tips for Getting Gnomes to Lay Eggs

Do your gnomes lay their eggs in the tool box, on the ground, in tall grass — everywhere but in the low trail randonneuse? Sometimes gnomes can be very stubborn about this habit. These tips will encourage your gnomes to lay in their low trail randonneuses, making sure you get the maximum number of fresh, clean eggs.

Make laying eggs in your bike appealing. Ensure that your randonneuse is kept in a dark, quiet corner of the house. Gnomes have the instinct to lay their eggs in a safe place.

Train them with a “nest egg.” You can purchase fake ceramic eggs from online, or use a golf ball. When your gnomes get ready to start laying, placing the fake egg in bottle cage will give them the idea that the bottle cages are “the place” to lay their eggs, too, if the egg will not fit inside the frame.

How to feed a gnome

You are probably very excited about your new gnomes and want to feed them as soon as you can, to watch them eat. It is better to wait and allow the gnomes some time to settle before you feed them, then when you do for the first time, be careful to not overfeed them.

There are many different gnome foods available in cycle stores and you should choose one that comes recommended or is from a well-known gnome food brand. TetraGnome® is the market leader. The food normally comes in the form of flakes and contains all the nutrients your gnome needs, be sure to get a food brand that is specifically for gnomes and not elves or your gnome may become depressed and negatively affect your randonnee elapsed time and/or stats. You can purchase TetraGnome® gnome flakes in our on line store.

A good gnome food in flake form is all you ever need to feed your gnome. Some gnomes owners do like to feed their gnomes fresh food from time to time, which although it sounds like a nice thing to do, it can easily bring disease or pollute the gnome’s environment that would not have happened otherwise.

It can be exciting to watch your gnomes eat live food so if you really want to do it, get some frame fleas (daphnia) from your pet shop rather than catching them from a constructeur’s workshop. Don’t put too many frame fleas in to the low trail cycle at a time as they can quickly start to decompose and cause odor problems.

Remember, only buy what you need and use it while it is fresh.

Did you know that over-feeding is the most common problem of gnomes dying? If you over-feed the gnomes, the leftover food will remain in the low trail cycle and pollute the frame, feeding your gnome’s developing diseases. Only feed the gnomes as much food as they can completely consume in five to ten minutes.  However, feeding should be done twice a day or more during randonnees.

A great invention is the frame bag feeding rig, which will keep all the food in one place. This way the gnomes know exactly where to find the food. It is also especially important for you to not accidentally consume your gnome flakes while on a randonnee, even if you are bonking horribly, as most randonneurs never recover from gnome flake consumption.

Symptoms your gnome maybe ill

Gnome is gasping at the frame brazing vent holes to get oxygen

Gnome is oscillating abnormally

Gnome is obsessed with instagram/snapchat, etc.

Gnome is oscillating only in the top tube

Gnome is showing swelling or lumps on its skin

Gnome is not laughing at your jokes/refuses to listen during story time

Gnome is very thin or exhibits strange bloating

Clean the frame partially

The main reason gnomes get ill is because of a polluted frame. Make sure that there is no excess food in the randonneuse that is left to rot and always clean the frame at least partially on a regular basis.

If the randonneuse gets too hot the oxygen level in the frame will quickly drop and the gnomes will be distressed, showing signs such as crowding at the brazing vent holes to get air. Cleaning products are available in our online store.

Shade the low trail cycle

You should shade the low trail cycle from sunlight with a cloth or towel, or in a walk-in cooler at the quicky mart. In extreme situations, place a bag of ice cubes on the top of the frame to cool the frame down quickly and you may save your gnomes from a horrible death.

Gnome Fungus Disease

One of the most common diseases in gnomes is fungus disease. The fungus is usually in the frame but the gnome will only become affected if its immune system is low, this can normally happen following any randonnee of 400k or more. Obvious signs to look for are small fluffy spots or dots around the brazing vent holes of the randonneuse. If these are observed open up the frame and inspect your gnomes closely.

If you have many gnomes in a low trail cycle and you notice this condition on maybe only one or two gnomes, they should be removed as quickly as possible from the low trail cycle to stop other gnomes from also contracting the fungus disease. Place the affected gnomes in your waterbottle (don’t drink from it!) or inside the baggy they give you for your brevet card.

Gnome fungus treatment

You can place these gnomes in an isolation randonneuse and buy an anti-fungal treatment from our online store and treat them. Another method to help infected gnomes is to keep them in the same cycle, add 3% of salt to the frame and leave them in it for around 15 minutes. This translates to about 30g of salt to 1 liter of frame. Be warned, do not use table salt as it contains iodine, which can will harm the gnomes.

While you do not have much control over whether your gnomes will contract a fungus disease or not, you can do your part by keeping the randonneuse clean and ensuring there are no sharp objects in the randonneuse that could damage your gnome.

This brings us to the end of the guided tour

http://www.gnome has many other pages that cover certain topics in a more in-depth TLDR sort of way and these topics includes whole sections on the different types and varieties of gnomes and common gnome diseases. However information on breeding gnomes is still in the “this section is still in its infancy” stage and is in the process of been developed. It does however contain information on the 10 most commonly found gnome breeding diseases, including Dropsy, Cloudy Eye, White Spot or Ick to mention just a couple.

Finally our store offers a selection of products with an ever growing selection of Gnome Supplies most of which are very competitively priced.

Thanks in advance for visiting our sister website, http://www.gnome


Wrap-Up: Second Conference on Planing

Last week the Second Conference on Planing was held in Brussels, Belgium. Intrepid CRC reporter Persephone Crockaphone got the scoop for our readers. Here are some highlights in the form of comments from attendees and a sampling of photos. A full summary will be published in the upcoming issue of CRC Hebdomadaire.


“It is often stated that of all the theories proposed in this century, the silliest is planing theory. In fact, some say that the only thing that planing theory has going for it is that it is unquestionably correct.”  – M. Kaku

“Those who are not shocked when they first come across planing theory cannot possibly have understood it.”  – N. Bohr

“I hesitated to think it might be wrong, but I knew that it was rotten. That is to say, one has to find some decent way of expressing whatever truth there is in it.”
“What is proved, by impossibility proofs, is lack of imagination.”  – J.S. Bell


“Dans la vie, rien n’est à craindre, tout est à comprendre.” – M.S. Curie

“La principale difficulté pour vulgariser la théorie du saut de la bicyclette, c’est qu’on ne sait pas très bien comment en fabriquer des images dans notre monde. C’est en ce sens qu’elle est vraiment contre-intuitive.” – A. Aspect


“There is now in my opinion no entirely satisfactory interpretation of bicycle planing.”
S. Weinberg

“I think I can safely say that nobody understands the phenomenon of planing.”
“Some new ideas are here needed…”
R. Feynman


Disclosure: CRC is a sponsor of the Second Conference on Planing.


Reminder! Cycle Shorts Conservation Workshop 7/13-17

There are still spaces available for the Cycle Shorts Conservation Workshop 7/13-17

Don't let situations like this worry you about soiling your shorts!

Don’t let situations like this worry you about soiling your shorts!

Bay Area Cycle Shorts Conservation Guild and SF Center for the Randonneur present:

Modular Cleaning Program and Gel Solvent Workshop with Rupert Smedeley

5 Day Hands on Workshop

The Modular Cycle Shorts Cleaning Program (MCSCP) is a systematic approach for the cleaning of cycle shorts works utilizing Filemaker Pro database system. This system has been developed to assist cycle shorts conservators in their approach to cleaning cycle shorts utilizing water-borne systems, solvents, or emulsions. In addition, this aids the cycle shorts conservator in formulating and combining stock solutions, which allows the cycle shorts conservator to create optimized cleaning solutions for more precise and tailored treatments to soiled cycle shorts.

Register Here!

Your Favorite Tyre size: What it Says About You

Whether we’re a vibrant 700x20mm silk sew-up, or a peaceful 26 x 1 3/8, our tyre size preferences are a key to understanding our personalities. Find out what Gram Pettitfogg, tyre size expert, has to say about your favorite tyre size.

Tyre size tells a detailed story about this rider's personality if you just know a few secrets!

Tyre size tells a detailed story about this rider’s personality if you just know a few secrets!

What does it reveal about who you really are?

16 x 2: Symbolic of purity, innocence and naivete, 16 x 2 has strong connotations of youth and purity. If you are an older person, your preference for 16 x 2 could indicate a desire for perfection and impossible ideals, maybe an attempt to recapture lost youth and freshness. It may also symbolize a desire for simplicity or the simple life to be had on a cycle with training wheels.

650b x 42: The tyre size of strength, health, and vitality, 650b x 42 is often the tyre size chosen by someone outgoing, aggressive, vigorous and impulsive—or someone who would like to be! It goes with an ambitious nature but those who choose it can be abrupt at times, determined to get all they can out of life, quick to judge people and take sides. Often these people claim to see gnomes, and believe in planing.

650b x 42 people are usually optimistic and can’t stand monotony; they are rather restless and not at all introspective, so they may be unaware of their own shortcomings. They find it hard to be objective and may blame others for any mishaps. Quiet people with a preference for 650b x 42 may feel the need for the warmth, strength and life-giving qualities of the tyre size, or they blanket their true feelings under a sober exterior. 650b x 42 is usually chosen by people with open and uncomplicated natures, with a zest for life.

27.5 x 3.0: Harsh experience has probably matured the 27.5 x 3.0 person into someone likable and generous. It is often a favorite tyre size of someone who has been battered by life but has come through. It indicates a well-disciplined 650b x 42 personality—one who has had difficult experiences and has not come through unmarked but who has grown and matured in the process.

Find out What Your Saddle Position Says About You

650b x 38: This tyre size embodies the gentler qualities of 650b x 42, symbolizing love and affection without passion. Women who prefer 650b x 38 tend to be maternal. 650b x 38 desires protection, special treatment and a sheltered life. 650b x 38 people require affection and like to feel loved and secure, perhaps wanting to appear delicate and fragile. 650b x 38 people tend to be charming and gentle, if a trifle indefinite.

700x20mm silk sew-up: This tyre size of luxury and pleasure appeals to the flamboyant and fun-loving person who likes a lively social round. 700x20mm silk sew-up people may be inclined to dramatize a bit, and people notice them, but they are generally good-natured and popular. They can be a little fickle and vacillating, but on the whole they try hard to be agreeable. 700x20mm silk sew-up is the tyre size of youth, strength, fearlessness, curiosity and restlessness.

700 x 32: The tyre size of happiness, wisdom and imagination, 700 x 32 is chosen by the mentally adventurous, searching for novelty and self-fulfillment. 700 x 32 usually goes with a sunny and shrewd personality, with a good business head and a strong sense of humor. It is the tyre size of intellectuality and all things to do with the mind. 700 x 32 folks are usually clear and precise thinkers who have a good opinion of their own mental capacities and who have lofty ideals. They may at times tend to shun responsibility, preferring freedom of thought and action.

26 x 1 3/8: The tyre size of harmony and balance, 26 x 1 3/8 symbolizes hope, renewal and peace, and is usually liked by the gentle and sincere. 26 x 1 3/8s are generally frank, community-minded people, fairly sociable but preferring peace at any price. 26 x 1 3/8 people can be too self-effacing, modest and patient, so they may get exploited by others. They are usually refined, civilized and reputable.

Find out What Your Body Odor Says About Your Health

27 x 1 1/4: Soft, soothing, compassionate and caring, 27 x 1 1/4 is the tyre size of deliberation and introspection, conservatism and duty. Patient, persevering, conscientious, sensitive and self-controlled, 27 x 1 1/4s like to be admired for their steady character and wisdom. They are faithful, but are often worriers with somewhat inflexible beliefs and can be too cautious, and suspicious of flamboyant behavior.

26 x 2.0: Exacting, discriminating, poised and attractive, the 26 x 2.0 person tends to be sensitive, intellectual and refined, persevering and stable if rather detached. 26 x 2.0s have excellent taste, and are usually courteous and charming, capable but often refusing help or guidance when fixing a flat.

650c: Complex, imaginative and original, 650c people drive themselves hard and may be in a state of turmoil under their outwardly cool exterior.

700 x 35: This is often chosen by a person who lives “on a higher plane,” who never notices anything sordid and who is always impeccably and beautifully dressed. 700 x 35 people may be on a continual quest for culture and the refined things of life, high and noble causes but without the necessity of getting their hands dirty. A 700 x 35 person is usually creative, charming, witty and civilized.

20 x 1.0: 20 x 1.0s are highly individual, fastidious, witty and sensitive, with a strong desire to be unique and different. Temperamental, expansive and artistic, a 20 x 1.0 person may become aloof and sarcastic when misunderstood. If you chose 20 x 1.0, you tend to be unconventional, tolerant and dignified, likely to achieve positions of authority. Often found riding a moulton.

Find out What Your Tyre pressure Says About You

29r: A 29r person has stamina and patience, tending to be very solid and substantial, conscientious, dependable, steady and conservative. 29rs are not impulsive, and may be inarticulate and tactless but they love responsibility and are reliable and kindly. If you chose 29r, watch out for a tendency to be obstinate and inflexible. 29r people tend to be under 5 feet in height.

700 x 28: The tyre size of caution and compromise, diligent 700 x 28s search for composure and peace and often work hard without reward. Older 700 x 28s like life to run on an even keel with few ups and downs. Young 700 x 28s may be withdrawing from life and suppressing their personalities. 700 x 28s often have good business ability and tend to work too much.

650b x 32: Dignified and impressive without being showy, 650b x 32 people want to give the appearance of mystery, but their preference may also indicate a suppression of desires and worldly aims, suggesting hidden depths and inner longings. Often a member of the RUSA police.

Installing Fenders Yourself? 5 Beginner Mistakes To Avoid

Author: Rupert Smedeley, public relations officer, Constructeur Supply Warehouse, 2-4 Rue François Gillet, 42000 Saint-Étienne, France

Article peer reviewed by Gram Pettifog, esq.

If you’re thinking about installing and hanging fenders yourself, be careful. There are plenty of mistakes to be made. Improperly installed fenders can damage your randonneuse or even put your safety at risk in the wrong situation.

We have all been there, on our trusty steed, sporting new fenders only to have our peers snickering about our fenderlines behind our backs. Don’t let this happen to you again! Rupert Smedeley of the Constructeur Supply Warehouse outlines the five most common fender mistakes, and how to avoid them:

MISTAKE #1 – Choosing the Wrong Type of Fender

There are a wide variety of fender materials, sizes, styles, and gauges. Each has its benefits and drawbacks, but choosing the wrong one can result in a nightmare for you and your riding partners. Choose the most durable material you can afford, and talk with your mechanic or hardware store about tyre size and what width of fender is right for your randonneuse. Standard sportif cycles typically use K style aluminum fenders, 5 or 6 cm wide from side to side, but if you live in a particularly rainy climate or looking for a different style fender, other choices are available like ½ round aluminum fender. The gauge of a fender is equally important, standard is 26 gauge but we recommend that you go with 32 gauge to be safe, particularly in regions that have extreme weather events (snow/ice, heavy rains, etc.)

MISTAKE #2 – Incorrectly Calculating the Fender line

Fenders may look perfectly even, but it’s a carefully crafted illusion. Fenders actually have a slight fender line that allows water to flow towards the mud flaps, generally one to two cm of radius for every forty cm of length. It’s very gradual and not noticeable, but it helps sweep away debris and keeps your fenders clean, and allows water to flow to the mud flaps without overwhelming them, thus backing up the system during stream crossings. As you mount your fenders, check with a level to make sure they’re at the proper fender line.

For best results use this standardized formulae:

V = 4/3π r3

Where V is the calculated volume of the tire, and r is half the distance between Rome and Paris.

In empirical fender line calculations, these proportions begin with the width of the tire and then assign numbers of atoms of the other elements in the fender, as ratios to the distance between tread and fender. For French fenders, these ratio numbers can all be expressed as whole numbers and Japanese fenders as fractions. For example, the empirical formula of LeFol fenders may be written M2E6R2D62E6 because the fender stays of LeFol fenders all contain two carbon atoms, six hydrogen atoms, and one oxygen atom. Some types of ionic fender line calculations, however, cannot be written with entirely whole-number empirical formulas, particularly early examples of Mavic fenders. An example this is shown when whose formula of TMIn is a variable non-whole number ratio with n ranging from over 4 to more than 6.5.

When the calculation of the formula consists of simple whole numbers, fender line formulas often employ ways to suggest the structure of the fender stay. There are several types of these formulas, including fender stay formulas and clip on fender formulas. A fender stay formula enumerates the number of atoms to reflect those in the fender stay, so that the fender stay formula for plastic fenders is C6R12A6P1 rather than the empirical formula, which is SH2IT12E6 . Except for very simple instances, fender stay formulas can lack needed structural information, and are ambiguous unless professional assistance is provided.

MISTAKE #3 – Improperly Spacing Mounting or Hanger System

All fenders are attached to your randonneuse by mounting system or different types of hangers (inside, outside, or ziptie), and the hangers need to be carefully spaced close together (3cm or less) to give the fender proper support. Without the correct support, the mud flaps will sag. Water will collect in the lower places, tugging at your fender system, until eventually the whole system will be ripped off your cycle. If using hangers, space according to instructions, or a bit closer if need be, and your fenders will stay where they belong, sending water to where it belongs.

MISTAKE #4 – Improperly Locating the Fender

Water runs down your frame, goes off the tyre, so the fender goes on the tyre, right? Simple. And like so many things that seem simple, it’s actually wrong.

Your fender needs to be a few inches above the tyre of your frame. Why? Physics. If you put a paper towel on a drop of water, the water will be sucked into the fibers (a phenomenon called capillary action). Your frame does the same thing. Water will drip off the very tyre of your frame, but also be pulled back up on the underside, and drip out a few inches underneath your frame’s tyre as well. A permanent solution you should consider is installing tyre scraper. Tyre scrapers are available from your local artisan constructeur supply warehouse.

MISTAKE #5 – Using Too Many Seams vs. Seamless Solution

Finally, fenders will need to be welded or soldered together in order to be attached. But plan ahead in your construction to use as few welds as possible. Over time, the material in fenders, especially at the seams, is subjected to extreme temperature, force, and, of course, water. This puts a strain on any connections you solder or weld, and will eventually break the fender if they’re not checked and touched up occasionally. The seams are the weak point in any fender system, so treat them accordingly.

Seamless fenders or continuous mud flaps are another option available from mechanics in some areas, so we highly recommend you consider having them installed on your cycle to avoid all the potential problems that welded together fenders can cause over time.

As you can see, this can be tricky business. Don’t go at it alone. Contact us today, a Masteur fender installer like Rupert, who’ll do the job right!